Questions & Answers

EVOALL EVO-CHRT4 not programming correctly after installation

0 votes
Installing an EVO-CHRT 4 in a 2012 Dodge Ram pickup. After initial installation (connection of T-harness), unit does not finish programming procedure correctly. On first attempt during Step 4 of the programming procedure the blue LED remained lit with no flashing after key was turned to ACC and then turned off after turning key to ON/RUN. All lights remained off after turning key to OFF again. Remote start did not work. Repeated steps 1-3 three times with same result on Step 4/5.

After reading through help forums, saw the recommendation to reset the unit in case it had been previously programmed for another vehicle. This was done by programming to the red light on step 2 and then holding the program button until all three lights flashed.

Now, unit performs normally through Steps 1-3 but now flashes all three lights when turning key to ON, and does so more than three times. The continuity was checked with a voltemeter and there is no loss of power or ground on the 4 pin data connector. This isn't surprising considering this only occurred after resetting the unit. My best guess is the firmware was reset as well, but my understanding is that then the lights should only flash three times.

Thank you,

Brett
asked Nov 29, 2019 in Dodge by Brett (200 points)
edited Dec 2, 2019 by Brett

3 Answers

+1 vote
So, in short summary, during programming it seems that blue light remains solid if only the 4 pin data connector is plugged in, but flashes all three lights 25 times (all lights flash together at once as opposed to in sequence) if the large white connector with ignition lead (+/- the others) is plugged in.

Based on what you wrote, this would make sense as module would not detect ignition if large white connector is not plugged in. So this at least fits with expectations.

Still, it leaves the question as to why all three flash when ignition is detected.

 

UPDATE: Fixed a couple typos in my original comments (now edited). Sorry for adding any confusion to this post for those that read the original comments.
answered Dec 2, 2019 by Brett (200 points)
edited Dec 2, 2019 by Brett
0 votes
What is the service number or S/N to the module?
answered Nov 29, 2019 by derek g (324,940 points)
001A07 047470
0 votes

Firmware will not reset from doing a reset. 

 

That unit (001A07 047470) was setup by the place you purchased it from correctly from what i can see. Although they flashed it for a Town and Country (same thing really). That also means they probably connected for you, the two yellow wires. If they did, I would first verify there connection of those two yellow wires. THAT would explain why the blue LED never went out when turning the key on. Although not having the harness fully clipped would also explain that and the fact that when it did go OFF, it never started to flash https://cdn02.fortin.ca/download/67121/evo-all_ig_tsa_bi_chr4-win_town-challenger-ram-gcaravan-routan_2011_d_67121.pdf

 

I personally think there is a faulty ground (black wire, 4 pin connector) and the module is simply grounding itself off ignition until the car is actually turned on.  Easy to test, with ONLY the black connector, try releasing on blue and then turn the key on. 

 

for your own troubleshooting, being the simplest of all the installs available. 

 

When programming:

- BLUE stays ON = module does not detect ignition ( YELLOW wire pin A1)

- BLUE LED goes but never flashes = not reading CAN-BUS (grey and grey/black wires from 5 pin white)

  • Voltage on CAN should be ruflly 2.5Vdc on each.
answered Dec 2, 2019 by Robert T (297,620 points)
Thank you for the detailed reply. This has given me a couple new things to check but still hasn't helped solve the problem yet. Here is an update on what the module does during programming:

1) The yellow wire (A1) has good continuity to both sides of the T-harness and module. The splice is solid and there is no loss of continuity when attempting to gently move the yellow wires at the splice.

2) If only 4-pin data connector is plugged in --> During programming, after setting to blue, turning key to ACC/ON and then OFF again results in no change and a solid blue light throughout the entire process.

3) If 4-pin data connector and large white connector with ignition lead (+/- others) are plugged in --> During programming, after setting to blue, turning key to ACC results in no change and a solid blue light. After turning key to ON, all three lights flash 25 times and then turn off. Turning they key to OFF does not interrupt the three-lights from flashing 25 times. Note again that this only started happening after resetting the unit as described above.

4) If the 4-pin data connector is plugged in without holding the programming button, all three lights flash 25 times and then turn off. I know this isn't the correct procedure for programming, but figured I would share the observation in case it was helpful.

5) The ground to the black wire on the 4-pin data connector is solid, and there is no loss of ground whether the key is OFF, ACC, or ON.

Next steps? I'm hoping to solve this problem if possible but I'm nearly at the end of the time period at which I'm allowed to return this unit. If all of the connections appear to be good, does that suggest that the unit may be faulty or not setup properly?

Thanks,

Brett
Also, this is a like-new low-miles (<20,000) factory stock 2012 Ram Sport with only one owner.  To my knowledge there has been no modifications or other issues with the vehicle whatsoever.
Oh, and for what it's worth voltage from CAN is ~2.25-2.5V on both striped and solid grey wires of 5-pin white connector.
Oh, and I checked all the pins and plugs from T-harness connections to module. There are no bent pins and all connections are completely seated.
Sorry for adding confusion to this, but I noticed an error and a typo in my original comment to your reply. I updated the comment to correct the error. It seems that blue light remains solid if only the 4 pin data connector is plugged in, but flashes all three lights 25 times if the large white connector with ignition lead (+/- others) is plugged in.

Based on what you wrote, though, this would make sense as module would not detect ignition if large white connector is not plugged in. So this at least fits with expectations.

Still, it leaves the question as to why all three flash when ignition is detected.

3) If 4-pin data connector and 5-pin white connector (+/- others) are plugged in --> During programming, after setting to blue, turning key to ACC results in no change and a solid blue light. After turning key to ON, all three lights flash 25 times and then turn off. This happens regardless of whether or not just the 4-pin data connector is in place or all of the required connections have been made.

 

Just because of this, and the fact you mentionned being close to a deadline for return and not having the updater itself, I would suggest contacting whomever you purchased the unit from to get a replacement. 

 

Still, it leaves the question as to why all three flash when ignition is detected.

It's doing the same thing as if you were to plug in the module without holding down the button on module. All three leds flash about 20 times.  This is normal on an unprogrammed module but NOT normal when you are actually in programming mode trying to program the module. 

 

Sorry for adding confusion to this, but I noticed an error in my original comment to your reply. I updated the comment to correct the error. It seems that blue light remains solid if only the 4 pin data connector is plugged in, but flashes all three lights 25 times if the 5-pin white connector with the ignition lead is plugged in.

I am hoping that you meant the 20-pin connector and not the 5-pin connector. Ignition input is in the 20-pin. 

TLDR:  Get it changed.
Correct, I meant the 20 pin connector. Sorry for the typos (that's what happens when I try to rush a post). All should be fixed now.
Alright, thank you for the help and sorry again for the typos in my comments. I'll try replacing the unit since it seems there's not much else I can do without the updater.
...